June 2-June 13, 2008 June 2, 2008 Arrival Piemonte
5 Night Luxury Ensuite Accommodations
Exclusive Wine Tastings
Vintner Gourmet Dinners & Wine Pairing
Castle Cooking Lesson & Dinner
$3200 per Person, Based on Double Occupancy
Exclusive of Airfare, Includes Partial Ground Transportation
June 7, 2008 Arrival at Tuscany Villa
6 Night Private Ensuite Lodging
All Meals & Unlimited Wines at Villa
Castle Wine Tours, Tastings, Cooking Lessons
June 13, 2008 Departure Tuscany
$3400 per Person Based on Double Occupancy
Exclusive of Airfare, Includes Partial Ground Transportation
For Both Piemonte and Tuscany *
$6250 per Person Based on Double Occupancy
Exclusive of Airfare, Includes Partial Ground Transportation
This Vagabond Gourmet tour of a lifetime begins in Piemonte located in the northwestern region of Italy when June is abuzz with gastronomic activity and we think it is the best time for a food and wine lover's visit. Imagine sitting across a bountiful dinner table, filled with regional foods, with the winemakers themselves?
“There has never been a better time for drinking Italian wines than right now” says
our educator and Italian specialist, Mark Lasky joining us on the tour. Italy
has enjoyed several years of great harvests and people are realizing how fantastic
the wines from all over the country are. Italian wines are being produced at
the highest quality levels in years so having an insider's knowledge to lead
us the way is priceless.
This is a food lover's paradise and there is something here to tempt every taste bud. Occupying a large area that borders on France and Switzerland, Piemonte's cuisine is heavily influenced by the French. While the Alps loom magnificently on the eastern and northern borders and the valleys are speckled with picturesque lakes and hills. The greasy slopes and Alpine valleys are also home to some of the world’s finest cheeses and many hallmarks of Piemontese cuisine include truffles, rice, butter and cream. From the starters to the dessert, Piemonte's cuisine is known for its exquisite flavors and ancient recipes. All befitting the “King of Wines”. Dining well is guaranteed.
Day1- Piemonte Arrival & Welcome Dinner
Piemontese’ gourmet delights are as world-class as the famous wines. Our first dinner is paired with favorite selections of our host, Giacomo, who takes great pride in his knowledge of the local wines. Typical of the changing seasonal menus are items like Cold Veal Roast with Tuna & Caper Mayonnaise, Potato, Porcini Mushroom and Goat Cheese Timbale, Quail in Herb Infused Barolo Chinato, Salad of Foie Gras and Sautéed Duck Breast with Citrus Vinaigrette, or a Zucchini Flower and Veal Sausage Risotto.
Day- 2 “Astesana”
This wine lover’s extravaganza begins after a hearty gourmet breakfast buffet with fresh egg dishes, warm croissants, homemade breads, salami, coppa, cheeses, fruits, muesli and cakes.
A private coach leads us on a magical journey along the spectacular, beautiful hilly roads of the Langhe and surrounded by the vineyards of Barolo and Barbaresco.
The Wine Road has taken the old name of Astesana and follows eight scenic routes, all running along peaceful secondary roads with magnificent panoramas from hilltops called "the hills of quality". There are over 300 wineries many private, and Mark's relationship with several of the finest is what this great wine adventure is all about. Unlike other wine producing regions, the welcome mat is not always out but with Mark the door is open.
Grapevines may crisscross the whole Italian peninsula, but many Italians-even proud natives of other wine-producing regions-consider Piemontese wines to be among the country's best. Listening and interacting with them about life in the vineyards. Hear and feel the passion and taste it in their wines.
These are real down to earth people who produce some of the most amazing wines on the planet. Small producers like Castello di Neive and Claudio Icardi will welcome you into their hearts as well as their homes. If you traveled in Italy you know a visit with friends never complete without eating something together. One thing is certain...you will not go hungry this week!
Relax after our return at the Castello or enjoy a walk in the beautiful gardens prior to dinner. Our host Jay and his chef partner wife, Denise are legendary for their outstanding cuisine and hospitality.
Denise and Jay’s love of stellar food and wines shines in their imitate dining room. Not only do we to enjoy Denise’s cooking but join her in the kitchen for insight into ancient Piemontese recipes but how she adds surprises and shows a playful side to her creations wish dishes like her “half-moon ravioli stuffed with tiny pink shrimps, zucchini and fresh basil served with a zucchini cream and finished with a drizzle of hot pepper oil. Her sinful homemade gelatos like the tarragon, pistachio brittle, and black pepper Barolo granita are just one reason why they are known for culinary excellence.
Day 3- La Morra and Alba
Enjoy another gourmet breakfast, then we journey again on the on the fabled "Strade del Vino” to the extraordinary Oddero Vineyards where winemaking traditions have passed from grandfather's to sons.
It’s impossible to give a precise date when the business was established as the vineyards and the farmhouse have always belonged to the Oddero family. Documents, memories and photographs take it back to the brothers Lorenzo and Luigi, born in the early Nineteenth century. It is thanks to them that the Nebbiolo grapes of La Morra were first vinified, and they continue to make some of the most highly respected Barolos
After we go a little further to the town Alba and the capital of the famed white truffle fair. The narrow streets of Alba are filled with irresistible bakeries, specialty food boutiques, wineries, cafes and restaurants to explore. We suggest your first stop is at the baroque tea hall for a caffè corretto, a wonderfully syrupy espresso "corrected" with a splash of grappa at the glitzy Antico Caffè Calissano.
Lunch is on your own at one the cities quintessential outdoor cafes then pay a visit to the famous shop of Tartufi
Morra- the grandfather of 20th Century white truffle commerce. The fragrant smell of truffles greet you at the door appropriately decorated with photographs of mythic sized truffles the hunters, and the most famous of the truffle hunting dogs.
Dinner this evening is at one of Piemontese gastronomic food shrines. La Contea
is owned by people who take their forefathers philosophy and recipes very seriously.
Their love of tradition and quality of life all revolving around food is one
we happily share. A table waits just for us in this quaint old county house.
The Piemontese adore their complete meal, the table is graced by infinite antipasti,
the best beef in Italy, eaten raw, fine cheeses, anchovies, pickled fish, "crostini" and
seasonal vegetables with Bagna Cadna. After agnolotti or polenta with rich truffle
sauce we move to meat courses. The region is a meat lover’s paradise with abundant
game and fish so this is one meal not soon forgotten.
Day 4 – The Heart of Langhe
After breakfast we continue to explore more the Langhe and meet other winemakers who are part of the royal Barolo legacy.
The Dante Rivetti family is well rooted in the hills of the Langhe. Generation after generation the family has strengthened the commitment to the vineyard and to the farming heritage, especially “the one in “Brice di Neive” facing the sunny side of the hill where the sun warms the grapes. Passionate about the methods of production, the Barbera d’Alba and “Alabarda” are two excellent examples of this family’s dedication.
Another deeply committed producer is Giacomo Borogno whose Barolo was the chosen wine for many important occasions. One of particular note was banquet in honor of Czar Nicholas II of Russia during his visit to the Castle of Racconigi at the beginning of the century.
Later in the afternoon we’ll return to the Castello di Sinio and join Denise for an informal cooking lesson prior to dinner. Denise is a not only a skilled chef but loves to impart her wisdom of the culture, history and how it all relates to the”cucina tipica”. Add a generous amount of laughter and great company to this recipe.
Another sumptuous wine dinner waits in the Castello di Sinio’s intimate candle lit dining room. Our menu is carefully planned using the freshest seasonal ingredients and will include many of Denise’s’ signatures items, like her pasta with a sauce of rabbit and tomato and black olives from Liguria, rack of lamb crusted with mustard and pistachios and perfumed with orange, or the locally raised Fassone beef of Piemonte. Desserts are decadent here like the chocolate amaretti soufflé with peach sauce or Denise’s rich custard made with caramelize goat milk with a crunchy hazelnut crust and caramel sauce. All paired perfectly with fabulous wines and of course the outstanding cheese board of Piemonte famed cheeses like the legendary Castelmango.
Day 5- Medieval Villages, Castles and Cooking
There are so many beautiful places to see and around every corner is another glorious view but nearby are two of the most beautiful examples of medieval architecture in the Langhe area; the castles of Grinzane Cavour and the fortress Serralung d ‘Alba. Perched on hilltops you can really get a feeling of ancient times and the history of these noble families and their feudal conflicts.
Mondovi is spectacular too as is the little gem Cherasco, also known as the snail or lumache capital of the world. Snails may not be your fancy but the Baci di Cherasco, or "Cherasco Kisses” certainly will be. This elegant pasticceria has been in business for 120 years and remains a must visit for chocoholics.
A lunch at the Osteria de la Rosa Rossa includes terrific snail dishes—one with wild mushrooms, another with tomatoes and chilies. We discovered that the Osteria also turns out some memorable plates that don't involve lumache, such as a gnocchi made with a velvety sauce of cream and Castelmagno, or a beautiful plate of cured leg of lamb with arugula, sweet cherry tomatoes, drizzled with fruity extra-virgin oil.
Another must see is the mystical Sacra San Michele where some say the sounds of chanting monks still seem to linger in the air. Coupled with beautiful art, enchanting stories about angels and the breathtaking panoramic view over mountains you can’t help but fall in love with this magical land.
Our final evening in Piemonte we visit a very special and charming hideaway where sumptuous foods are meant to not be hurried but savored along with their fine wines. This philosophy is the founding stone of the Slow Food Movement and why foodies near and far make a pilgrimage to Castle di Verduno for their food and wines.
Lesson & Dinner at Castello di Verduno
Once upon a time a King named Carl Alberto bought a summer
castle for no other reason than to guarantee a constant supply of excellent wine.
Today the charming, shabby chic Baroque castle is well loved and tended by a
three sisters who split the chores. One runs the vineyard still producing prize
winning wine, one cleans and the other cooks. In the kitchen we get to join in
the fun with the one who cooks while tonight’s feast is being created.
Everything is homemade by Chef Lisetta Burlotto and her talents have earned her
an international fan and high marks in the Slow Food hall of fame.Day 6 - Early Breakfast -
Transport to Tuscany (5 HourS)
Welcome Dinner at Villa Montignoso
Tuscany as we know is another revered food lover’s paradise and our villa on the outskirts of San Gimignano has the perfect kitchen for cooking together or enjoying a glass of Super Tuscan. Relax by the pool or walk in the woods surrounding our beautiful private estate.
Whether its potato gnocchi, osso bucco, Bistecca ala Fiorentina, truffle pasta or “caccicucco” the spicy Tuscan fish stew, each dinner at the villa will be memorable. And desserts are never overlooked. The decadent “zucotto” is doused with liquors, hazelnuts and of course, chocolate. All a fine prelude before grappa and Lemoncella.
Day 7 – Pasta Making and San Gimignano
The Tuscan breakfast table each morning begins with dark rich coffee and buttery brioche, anise flavored “brigidino”, crostatas, fresh fruits, sausages, thick ham and eggs or frittatas. The rustic breads make excellent toast for special jams, honey and fruit compotes. Plus there’s always goodies and from the pasticceria or little surprises like baked nectarines with amaretti.
Of course, no Vagabond Gourmet tour is complete without a serving of fun, so we’re being joined in our kitchen by Donatella one of our Tuscan friends and local chef.
Donatella has been cooking her entire life. In fact, making everything from scratch the old-fashioned way is her specialty. Roll up your sleeves and see if you can roll the pasta as thin as Donatella can? No pasta machines here! The lunch we’ll prepare together of Tagliatelle with Fresh Tomato Sauce, Tortelli with Spinach Ricotta and Sage Butter, Gnocchi Nudi and Cantucciini is delicious classic Tuscan fare that will have you looking for a rolling pin in San Gimignano later.
Today, we also meet Giulio who has studied winemaking in Tuscany for several years. As a respected oenologist Giulio has intimate knowledge of the regions winemakers and delights in finding us off the beaten path discoveries.
Only a few minutes away is the towered city of San Gimignano is most of Tuscany’s most charming villages and a treasure trove of gourmet shops for buying salumi at La
buca di montatuto, pecorino, olive oils, and goodies from the pasticceria Lucia
and Maria’s.
Within the old walls is the Musceo della Collegiato the in famous eerie Benzzo Gozzoli frescos of Judgment Day worth of a stop. And the gelato shop in the town square has some of the best noccicola (hazelnut) we’ve ever eaten and definitely not to be missed. Another favorite is the chocolate maker who’s balsamic and pepper filled chocolates are incredibly unique and a great take home present.
Dinner in our Villa
Love to cook? Our kitchen stove is bubbling with a traditional and creative spins to this robust cuisine. The abundance of fresh vegetables, herbs, meats, fish, and local farm products is the first ingredient for nightly antipastos. . In our villa kitchen you may join our chefs in the kitchen for lessons and in preparing some Tuscan favorites like Duck Breast in Ragu with Baked Mascarpone Polenta or “The Torta” a decadent pasta pie layered with homemade Chinghai sausages, ham, mushroom tortellini cheese, pine nuts and spices. Try your hand at rolling pasta for a tagliatelle with porcini and cream or the decadent Zucotto soaked with hazelnuts, chocolate and liqueurs.
Day 8 – A Tuscan Masterpiece
Our day begins with breakfast at the Villa then we depart to meet two celebrated vintners for an exceptional day of wine indulgence and pampering.
The outstanding Tenuta dell'Ornellaia is located in Bolgheri, the birthplace of many legendary Super-Tuscans, and is consider a must for wine connoisseurs. The unique partnership between the ancient wine maker family Antonori and California’s Mondavi family evolved then changed, and along the way the experimentation with new methods and varieties has created exceptional wines.
Prized by collectors and one of the most sought after Super Tuscans the estate owners are called visionaries and leaders in revolutionizing modern Italian wine making. These great vintages still embrace their old Tuscan soul even though some argue Bordeaux varieties have no place in Italy.
Gianni Brunelli and his family expertly blend their love of food and wine by producing world class Brunello wines and one of Siena best restaurants. Whether you are a gourmand or a wine connoisseur this artisanal Brunello estate will capture your attention. Le Loggia in Siena the family restaurant is touted as having some of the best food in the region. Gianni is a good friend of Marks and we have a private table waiting for us. Gianni and his larger than life personality are eager to share his latest masterpieces, on the table, in a glass, and also an impressive art collection.
Day 9
Experience the beauty and magic of Tuscany’s stunning scenery in the Val D’Orca on the drive to Tenuta di Trinoro. The rather eccentric owner of this relatively new estate has made an impressive entrance on the Italian wine scene. Known for being obsessive and daring, the small producer Andrea Franchetti is making stellar wines.
We have lunch on the estate before wandering the "Jewel of the Renaissance" Pienza an ancient fairytale village whose streets are heavy with the smell of Pecorino cheese. This is the Crete Sensei capital and tasting all the different types of Pecorino cheese produced here will astound you. A true gourmet's dream is wandering the shops filled with mushrooms, pastas, honeys, jams, cheeses and oils
Giulio bring us to an ancient 15th century fortress once owned by the same noble Florentine family for 1000 years. The foundations of the castle were erected in the year 1260 and the imposing structure was an important medieval stronghold between the border of the Siena and Florence territories. Now owned by another prominent family who actually live in the castle, this private wine estate is rarely open. Giulio is pleased to present us with an exceptional afternoon to taste the wine and enjoy the specialties of the family cook.
Back In Our Villa Kitchen
For many the recipe for perfection can be found in the open-air markets where late spring is the season for artichokes, strawberries, asparagus, squash blossoms and arugula. Using the finest and freshest ingredients – is one of the secrets to preparing Tuscan food.
Ask any Tuscan what their favorite dish is and many will say a two-pound T-bone of Chianna beef quickly charred over a wood-burning flame. To the beef connoisseur, few cuts of meat are as exceptional as those from the cattle raised in Tuscany’s Chianna valley used for the bistecca
ala fiorentina and about as tender and flavorful a steak you will eat. The open fire grill in our kitchen is perfect for grilled the steak and vegetables with a light balsamic glaze.
At the Enotecca in Greve we’ve learned how olive oils are blended using certain olives to create the desired color and fruitiness. For us nothing is better than a warm bruschetta with melted Pecorino, diced ripe tomatoes, piled high with arugula and drizzled with extra fruity oil.
Day 10- Umbria or Artisan Bread Making
We offer two different options, a day trip with Mark to visit Umbrian vineyards, considered to be the most picturesque in all of Italy and home to the area known as the "classic" zone, the oldest and most well known wine-producing land in the Orvieto province. Then on to the village of Orvieto sitting on the same high plateau for 3000 years overlooking farmland and volcanic valleys. The city since has been a center for worship, art, and touristy (in that order), with its visitors becoming intoxicated by Orvieto's character, charm, history and-of course-renowned Orvieto Classico wine.
Option Two- Artisan Bread Making in Centuries Old Stone Oven
If you prefer a break from the wine tasting meet Viola, a unique artisan that answered the “call” to return to the soil she explains and to find a simpler life for her and children. Growing and grinding her own grains might didn’t sound simpler to us at first either, but watching the loaves rise in her old stone oven was a about as rewarding as any experience we’ve had.
Viola will show you how to make bread from scratch, using the products on her land. There is nothing quite like the smell of fresh bread pulled right out of the oven, is there? In one form or another, bread has been one of the principal forms of food for man from the earliest of times. Here in Italy, there is no exception. Like ages ago, the making of fresh bread is a tradition that has passed from generation to generation, and Viola secrets will be passing on to you.
Delicious rustic breads with rosemary and olives and pizza with fresh mozzarella, squash blossoms, and vegetables are on today's menu. She’ll also share some tips on using old bread so it doesn't go to waste. Lunch with Viola is next with; you guessed it, bread and pizza
More on Umbria and Orvieto
Orvieto is a living museum and one of Italy’s greatest hilltop villages.
The city's dazzling Duomo (cathedral) was designed ca. 1290 by the artist Lorenzo Maitani, but it involved 33 architects, 90 mosaic workers, 152 sculptors, and 68 painters working together for over 600 years to create the Duomo as it stands today. It's like the Louvre.
Several tasty, authentic food items to pick up or sample while in Orvieto include lumachelle (snail-shaped rolls with ham and cheese), tortucce (fried bread dough), anise seed or almond biscotti, chickpea-chestnut soup, rigatoni prepared with nuts and chocolate, and mazzafegate (sweet or salty sausages).
At Vinosus, the local Trattoria is a fine example of Umbrian cuisine and Lucca, the owner, will proudly tell you the secret to life- three bottles of Orvieto Classico wine. Owner Benardo Barberani supplies Lucca with all his wines from Barberani winery and wine shop located in the piazza at the top of Orvieto just across from Vinosus. This afternoon adventure to this ancient and wonderful city is sure to be one of the highlights of the trip.
Day 11- The Black Rooster
In the Chianti countryside the eye can range far across the unfolding of hills,
all offering a spacious spectra of color and a land offering some of the best
vines in Italy. This ancient wine region of is a "must do" for wine lovers and
the idyllic scenery is exactly how we think of dreamy Tuscany, sprinkled with
castles, hill top villages and vine-covered valleys.
The best wines of Chianti Classico are rich red wines made with the native Sangiovese grape and today passionate winemakers have educated us far and beyond the old days, of a red checked tablecloth and a candle dripping from a bottle in a basket.
Fattoria Felsina
Many of the cellars date back hundreds of years, like Fattoria Felsina with an ancient history as a onetime roadside hospital manned by Benedictine monks who tended to the sick and weary pilgrims that passed by. For the past three decades however, the modern Felsina is far better known as a producer of one of the finest and complex Chianti wines. Unyielding to the temptation of producing “new age” wines from their fine Chianti vineyards, they continues to grow solely Sangiovese grapes.
We have lunch at the Felsina estate with owner Giuseppe Mazzocolin who shows us his exquisite estate and then lead the tasting of his Chianti Classico, Riserva, Riserva Rancia and Super Tuscan Fontalloro.
Castell'In Villa in Castelnouvo Berardenga
In a neighboring medieval hamlet dating back to the 1200's is the home of Princess Coralia Pignatelli della Leonessa who opens her home to us to share her wines. In a land not often associated with women winemakers the Princess is a stand out.
First the Castell’in Villa is one of the oldest estates in this DOC region and
when this elegant Princess (actually of Greek lineage) was widowed she rose to
the challenge. Perhaps it a woman’s common sense approach, number one-- hand
pick the grapes at the height of ripeness and two- don’t sell the wine until
it is ready that she has earned the name, Princess of a Winemaker.
Only a generation ago, winemaking was almost exclusively the business of men.
And while women have made progress opening up the profession, they are still
a distinct minority. But what they lack in numbers they more than make up for
in.
Tonight we dine with the elegant Princess Coralia Pignatelli della Leonessa
at her wine estate, and experience a blend of a medieval history and modern Italian
style
Day 12 Depart
The Wine Leaders
Mark Lasky’s passion has always been food and wine. As a boy growing up in New Jersey, his Sicilian mother along with his grandparents taught him all about family traditions with respect to cuisine and culture. With 15+ years in the wine industry and currently store manager at West Palm Wines in Tampa, Florida, Mark is also a member of the Guild of Sommeliers and is a wine educator at The Tampa Wine Institute
Giulio Benuzzi -a native Italian began his career as a restaurateur in Milan at the highly respected restaurant Le Api. Having traveled all over Italy, his journeys eventually led him to Tuscany, where he soon fell under its spell and began another career as an enologist. His passion for life and marvelous charisma brings standing ovations to each of our Italian tours.
There are very few Italian wineries that welcome impromptu tours, and the ones that do generally don't make wines you'd go out of your way to drink. Thankfully, we have Mark and Giulio to lead us.
A Sampler of the Cuisine
Baby Lettuce with Mountain Trout, Vinaigrette with Pancetta and Ligurian Olive Oil, Fresh Pea Gnocchi, Nudi in Sauce of Leeks and Light Cream, Stuffed Zucchini Blossoms with Light Sauce of Rabbit and Forrest Mushrooms Braised in Barolo, Baked Stuffed Peaches with Sweet Ricotta
Asparagus with Fried Capers, Salmon Carpaccio, Lemon Aioli, Homemade Lamb Sausage
Ragu with Baked Polenta “Lasagna”, Hazelnut and Chocolate Crostata with Amaretto
Custard Sauce,
Antipasto of Baccala Potato Cakes with Red Pepper Aioli, Grilled Eggplant” Gateau” with Oil Roasted Tomatoes, Mozzarella and Arugula Pesto, “Bistecca ala Fiorentina”, Roasted Prawns and Vermicelli in the Style of “Al Covo”,
Dark Chocolate Terrine with Balsamic Syrup and Figs,
Caccicucco “Tuscan Fish Stew” ,Osso Buco with Black Truffle Gremolata & Saffron "Strozzapretti" Mozzarella
Roulade with Oven Roast Tomatoes, Prosciutto and Arugula Pesto, Grilled Bass
with Roasted Clams and Oregano, Zuppa Inglese
Cappeletti Flans with Bacon & Pinoli , Pork Grilled with Rosemary & Apricots
Asparagus Risotto with Summer Truffles, Macerated Berries with Marsala and Mascarpone,
Saffron Scented Panna Cotta with Raspberry Sauce
Pecorino Fritters with Red Wine and Honey Reduction, Agnolotti Filled with Veal and Porcini in Sauce Amatriciana, Braised Lamb Shanks with Bronzed Shallots, Brunello
Duck Ragu Braised in Chianti and Wild Mushrooms, Panzanella Fettuccini with Spicy Fra Diablo Sauce, Fried Calamari and Roasted Garlic Aioli Lamb Grilled with Artichokes, Lemon and Oil
Carpaccio Style Beef with Soft Potato Ravioli and Truffle Pan Sauce Tuscan Style Tomato Bruschetta with Garlic Rubbed Cheese Toast, Grilled Sausages with Roasted Garlic and Mascarpone Polenta,
Wild Greens with Fried Calamari, Gremolata and Extra Virgin Olive Oil, “Ribollita” Game
Birds Braised with Pancetta, Red Wine and Onions Baked Gnocchi in Lemon with
Wild Mushrooms, Hazelnut Semi Freddo with Bittersweet Chocolate and Frangelica
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