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$3550 per Person Based on Double Occupancy, Exclusive of
Airfare and Car Rental
- 7 Night Private
Ensuite Lodging
- All Meals & Unlimited Wine
- Chateau Beynac Tour
- Dinner at L'Esplanade
- Chateau les Merles Lunch
- Cahors Wine Tours & Tastings
- Enchantee Le Source Bleu Lunch
- Bastille Celebration "Fete" (Week II
only)
- Cooking Lesson Lunch at Le Brucliere
- Canoeing on the Dordogne
- Market Days & Artisan Producers
Perigord Noir, in Dordogne, is a
land of fairy tales, enchantment, breathtaking scenery, truffles,
chanterelles, duck confit, foie gras and deep ruby red wines. The
Dordogne is ancient France
and remains one of the most preserved areas away from the
bustle of any big cites, its timeless villages are perched
high above on limestone cliffs. The glories of victory and
defeat are vividly brought back to life through the hilltop
Chateaux and Bastide villages.
A legend pretends that when God distributed his castles,
he started by the Loire Valley. Going far away from there,
his bag burst over the Dordogne River and the Perigord region
dotting the countryside with countless castles. Well over
a hundred to be exact many still lived in.
Food lovers will know that the Dordogne is one of the most
celebrated gastronomic regions in France. Much has been written
about great food and wine in France and specifically from
the Dordogne, famous for a cuisine rich in wild mushrooms,
game and nuts. Walnuts appeared in the Cro Magnon man’s
diet and were traded like gold until the thirteenth century. From gateau
aux noix, vin de noix, to the toasty walnut oil drizzled
on salads, the walnut remains a key ingredient to many superb
dishes.
Even in a land steeped with old-world traditions, inventive
new cuisine is arriving with more emphasis on seafood from
the coast and the river's fresh water fish. The celebrated
duck and truffle still reign supreme, however many contemporary
twists have arrived. Our menus highlight both.
Relax,or join the dinner preparation in the kitchen. You may prefer
the beautiful terrace with a glass of wine before our first dinner.
In Le Prieuré kitchen several informal lessons on
regional cooking using all the wonderful fresh market finds
are offered most days. We welcome you to sharpen your skills
or learn some of the basics of the Dordogne cuisine.
Dinner begins with aperitifs on the terrace and sampling
of the local cheeses, walnut bread and farm smoked hams and
sausages. We love the different wines of the region like the
Bergerac Rose from Vignobles Roches or Pech Bessou both delightful
on a summer evening. For starters we may serve a chilled melon
with Monbazillac or classic Salade Perigordine then on to
Seared Magret with Raspberries and Walnuts or Roasted Pintade
with Morels and Cepes in a Cahors Reductions. Desserts are
not to be missed whether it’s an old tradition apple
tartin or wild berry gratinee. Dinner is not complete without
fine cheeses like the Roquefort Noir or the walnut liquor
doused Trappe made locally by a nearby Abbey.
Our first day in beautiful Dordogne will begin with a delicious
breakfast of cafe' au lait, pain au chocolate croissants,
yogurts, quiches and fruit. We will need to stock the larder
so afterwards we’re off to the Sunday market at the
medieval village of Issigeac.
The narrow streets are packed with vendors offering every
product imaginable. Their placement is by no means random,
and every vendor earns his spot. They travel from village
to village and might not always have the same items. Our friend
Nadine will certainly have a line to buy her berries the Mara
de Bois a strawberry unlike any other and only from the
Dordogne.
Madame Gisele makes her own phyllo for the regional Tourtiere
aux Pommes and pours a double shot of apple brandy
in between the buttery layers just before she ties a ribbon
on the box. We’ve given everyone a basket, a
handful of Euros and part of the shopping list, so this
lively market experience is fun for all and sampling is
definitely encouraged.
Louis is the vegetable king and his tables are laden with
tomatoes, peaches, fingerling potatoes, currants, beans, apricots,
and melons and just picked lettuce of all kinds. Arms
and baskets filled with local cheeses, the best ham you ever
tasted, oils, warm baguettes and free range roasted birds
from the chicken man we’ll make one more stop at the
patisserie to buy the most amazing chocolate éclairs
to add to our alfresco lunch later.
After a delicious lunch made we’re prepared with the
regional goodies from the market, the remainder of the day
will be a good time to visit Monpazier. The famous Bastide
village is a short distance away and is known for its charming
artist shops, street performers and well preserved medieval
architecture. The Bistro Deux has a lovely outdoor terrace
for people watching with a glass of wine or a cold beer.
Back in the Le Prieuré kitchen we welcome you to join
in the preparation of a true Cassoulet requiring several days’ effort
but well worth the result. The first part of the preparation
we will make a duck stock and another meat stock for cooking
the beans.
The Cassoulet
According to the legend,
it was during the 100 years war that the residents of Castelnaudary
came up with a single-pot recipe of hearty food to reinforce
its soldiers. As the story goes the English were preparing
to storm the city when the locals gathered bits of meat
and vegetables from each and every household. White
beans, pork, goose, lamb and sausages were thrown in a huge
pot and when the banquet was devoured the villagers were
so empowered they chased the English all the back to the
Channel.
Dinner tonight begins again with aperitifs on the terrace
and tasting the fine wines of Cahors, Bergerac and Bordeaux.
The wines of St. Emilion have long been sought after, yet
neighboring Bergerac produces the excellent Pecharmant also
worthy of royalty. A good place to start your knowledge of
the full bodied wines is Chateau de Tiregand who spares nothing
in the pursuit of excellence.
In the small town of Creysse, among rolling vineyards,
along a dusty path, you will meet Francois de Saint-Exupéry.
A prince of a host, Francois will delight you in perfect
English with the history of the vineyards, the art of wine
tasting and a trip up his family tree...the Saint-Exupéry
family... that has been making wines at Château de Tiregand
for well over 300 years. Francoise delights in sharing
his wines and a little secret; they buy their oak casks second
hand from Mouton-Rothschild to age the reds.
Next is lunch, an eight course tasting menu under a canopy
of umbrellas at the exquisite Chateau les Merles. Each
course is presented with panache and innovative style, the
best of the New Perigordine cuisine. The kitchen creates tantalizing
dishes like ahi tuna with vegetable gaufrettes, coriander
cream and basil glace. Using many ingredients they have grown
in their own gardens, each course may pair regional classics
with surprises like a Quercy lamb chop pastilla with a black
olive vinaigrette and eggplant caviar. A strawberry mille
feuilles layered with lavender cream and a pool of berry
coulis scented with black pepper is typical of these inventive
chefs.
On the way back to Le Prieuré we drive though the
walnut groves and tiny hamlets of Molières and St
Avit Sénieur both pretty as a postcard and off the
beaten path. When we return you may enjoy a walk in Biron
or roll your sleeves up in the kitchen as we continue another
few steps on the cassoulet and prepare the evening dinner.
After a leisurely breakfast,
we’ll pack a tasty
picnic made with roasted
eggplant and tomato tarts,
ripe melons, chicken with
truffled pasta, artisan sausages,
smoked magret, delicious
local cheeses and a warm
apple tartin. Today,
we’re off to the idyllic
village of Beynac perched
high above the Dordogne River
and to walk in the footsteps
of Kings. As one muse is
quoted “if fairytales
could dream” this would
be it.”
The massive Chateau Beynac
rises from the peak of the
cliff, looming over the river
as it has for centuries dating
back to 1115. Once home
to Richard the Lionheart,
the cobblestone streets leading
to the fortress leave visitors
breathless not only from
its beauty but if you hike
up from the road. It’s
easy to forget this was once
the scene for vicious battles
and the castle was so powerful
and its barons so cruel that
local vassals and peasants
named it "Satan's
ark".
One cannot help but imagine
the smells in the massive
kitchen where swords were
neatly sheathed at the table’s
edge and the gigantic cauldrons
simmered and bubbled with
goose fat and stews. Undoubtedly,
the castle cooks were well
guarded and we can understand
how the origins of this rich
cuisine came to be. The preserving
of geese for the winters
and spreading fat laden rillettes
on a slab of bread makes
perfect sense after you peer
over the ramparts of the
Chateau and envision the
climb wearing armor.
Further down the river
is a splendid spot for our
picnic with before a lazy
afternoon canoeing on the
river. Viewing the
villages, caves and castles
waterside offers unspoiled
views and the gentle current
of the rivers allows for
photographs or simply admiring
the scenery.
Tonight we feast on the
Cassoulet. The special ingredients
have been assembled from
best butchers and markets.
The homemade Toulouse sausages
and duck confit are made
by our butcher in of St Cyprien
and the beans have been slowly
cooked with lamb and pork.
The trick is in the final
assembly and baking we’ll
show you in our kitchen.
Perfect with a Pecharmant
from Chateau Tiregand we
particularity love, his 2002 Grand
Millésime.
This morning you have a
choice of two options. Its
market day in Sarlat and
of all the towns in France
the remarkable preservation
this city’s architecture
is like walking back into
the 14th century. Sarlat
has the greatest number of
medieval and Renaissance
buildings in France and the
Wednesday Market remains
one of the most important
markets in France. You
can easily immerse yourself
in the excitement with the
vast assortment of food stalls
and vendors selling their
wares. The only downside
is Sarlat has become a “must
see” for many and the
summer crowds can be daunting.
For some the hordes of tourists
are too exhausting and a
quieter stroll to the Chateau
de Biron will be more to
your liking. This incredibly
imposing castle was constructed
in several stages from the
11th - 18th century by one
family.
If you want to escape
into times gone by and act
the Lord and Lady of the
manor, then let yourself
be whisked into the magical
era of life as it used to
be centuries ago. Magnificent,
awe-inspiring the Chateau
de Biron has been beautifully
restored, with its mysterious
dungeons, huge kitchens (you
can almost smell the cooking),
the opulent bedrooms, towers
banqueting hall and secret
pass ways.
In the late afternoon we
travel to another picture-perfect
little jewel of a village
Domme. The turbulent history
of the Bastide town is long
forgotten and now within
the ramparts and ancient
gates is one of most beautiful
villages of France. Today
the honey colored stone houses
and flower filled windows
are fine shops offering,
antiques, art, wine, walnut
products, jars of confit,
pate, and countless other
regional goods. One favorite
shop sells violet and walnut
mustards, artisanal fruit
brandies, truffles and we
think best walnut oil.
Best yet is the beguiling
vista of the Belvedere de
la Barre perched high above
the staggering cliff. And
also home to the Hotel L’ Esplanade.
This beloved family restaurant
and hotel has been serving
exceptional food – and
breathtaking views of Dordogne
for nearly thirty years.
We have been visitors ourselves
for over fifteen and vowed
to never tell anyone else
about “our” secret
hideaway.
The family patriarch Rene
Gillard has a chef pedigree
from the Plaza Athenee in
Paris then moved the family
to Domme and began a dynasty
of culinary excellence. Dinner
is exquisitely prepared and
house specialties include,
grilled goose breast with
ginger, lamb with truffles
in pastry and a fabulous
grand Marnier soufflé.
On summer nights dining is
on the terrace overlooking
the Dordogne with our dear
friends who continue to dazzle
us with their wonderful food
and hospitality.
Not far to the south is
the Lot valley with its winding
river, limestone gorges and
vineyards of Cahors. The
black wines are reputedly
the darkest in the world
and legend says their richness
makes them the greatest "undiscovered" French
wine. It’s been said
that men would pour a bit
on their shirts to review
the stain and determine if
the wine had been watered
down. Chateau de Chambert
produces a deep rich wine
with all the "shirt
stainer" characteristic
of a good Cahors and is our
first stop.
To learn about the most
noble and ancient red wine
we meet some of the producers
who shed some light on this
hidden gem among French wines.
Older than Bordeaux with
a reputation for darkness
and strength it is the only
French red wine to harness
the power of the Malbec grape.
Clos de Gamot, Siguier, Triguedina
and Chateau Gaudou are just
a few of the 200 domains
in this wine producing powerhouse.
After a tour and visit to
the tasting rooms we are
off to lunch at le Source
Bleu. The hotel was originally
three water mills run by
the blue spring. They date
back to the 11th and 15th
century. There is also
a restaurant called "La
Source Enchantée" which
is located in a converted
barn with its original beams.
Enchanting is the 400 year
history of the family best
told by our dear friend Virginie
under the willow tress alongside
the idyllic river. Virginie
bakes us a walnut gateau
sprinkled with homemade vin
de noix and tells us
the stories of her famous
family where food, wine and
art have been celebrated.
It will be a delightful afternoon,
guaranteed.
If today has been your first
introductions to the wines
of Cahors, the dinner lesson
in Le Prieuré pairs
the savory intensity of this
appellation with the robust
flavors of a Perigord Pie
and noisette of lamb with
black currants. The original
Perigord Pie was truly a
lavish dish made for royalty
with whole truffles tucked
inside boned quail with Agen
prunes and Sauce Perigueux.
We’d modified the recipe,
omitting the feather and
beaks but retained all the
spirit of this noble dish.
Enjoy a leisurely breakfast
before we return to Issigeac
and meet a talented chef
whose reputation will certainly
earn him a Michelin star.
In a land where duck and
geese rule the roost, Nicolas
and Maffe's Le Bruceliere
have a remarkable seafood
menu.
Nick welcomes us into
his kitchen for a lesson
in his unique cooking style
and loves to surprise us
with his latest creation
and discoveries. Trained
in five star kitchens before
he arrived in Dordogne, Nicolas
has brought flavors to his
menus using more spices and
exotic ingredients. A Cabecou
ice cream might be served
with a roasted peach, or
star anise which gives Pastis
its aroma used to scent a
sauce for a river fish. After
joining Nick in his kitchen
we enjoy a private luncheon
in their garden and drink
some fabulous wines, Le Bruceliere
procures from vintner who
does not sell to the public.
Later we’ll stop at
a nearby small vintner whose
vintages are known only to
the finest connoisseurs and
one famous celebrity chef. Of
course, we'll select some
special bottles for our final
dinner later at Le Prieuré.
The Bastille
Day Celebration in our village is a wonderful
party literally at our doorstep.
The activities begin in early
morning when a large fire
is built for the “piece
de resistance’. The Marie (town
Mayor) and several villagers
work through the day, peeling,
chopping and preparing the
banquet. The piece de
resistance may be fire
roasted duck, homemade sausage
stuffed pigs, or entire sides
of beef.
When the festivities begin
people arrive from several
neighboring villages then
the banquet is served on
one long communal table in
front of the towering Chateau
Biron. A spectacular
fireworks display illuminates
the Chateau before dancing
under the stars.
If the celebration is not
on the week of your stay,
we’ll create our own
feast in Le Prieure’s
kitchen for a grand final
banquet of our own.
Our Dordogne Kitchen
The breakfast table each
morning greets you with café au
lait, pain au chocolate,
warm croissants and toast. Fruit
is in abundance this time
of year so we have berries,
melon and peaches to top
on muesli or yogurt along
with quiches, tarts, homemade
jams, and juice.
Evenings begin with
pates, rillettes, smoked
salmon, game sausages and
the incredible local cheeses
from the surrounding farms.
Surprises from the markets
or impromptu farm stops are
often included in our menus
and typically four or five
courses are served. A sampling
of our menus are below and
please note we gladly
accommodate personal likes
or dislikes as noted from
your Vagabond
Gourmet trip
application.
Chilled
Melon with Monbazillac,
Grilled Magret with Walnut
Liquor
and Fresh Raspberries,
Haricot Vert with Roast
Giroles,
and Chocolate
Pot du CrÉme
Tourtiere
of Duck Confit with Caramelized
Shallots, Grilled Salmon
with Béarnaise and
Pan Stew of Vegetables,
Warm Cabecou with Armagnac
Roasted Apricots, Lavender CrÉme
Caramel with Wild Strawberries
Warm
Tomato with Truffle Custard,
Mache and Walnut Vinaigrette,
Noisette of Lamb with Black
Currant and Cahors Reductions,
and Wild Berry Crepes Gratinee
Block
de Foie Gras with Berry
Compote, Cassoulet with
Homemade Toulouse Sausages
Rocamadour with Field Greens,
Grilled Chanterelles and
Walnuts, Mara des Bois
with Grand Mariner Gelee
Monkfish
in Shallots Saffron, Wine,
Tomatoes,
Tournedos of
Beef with Sauce Perigueux,
Potato and Celeriac Puree,
Chocolate Raspberry Ganache
Torte
Pancetta Wrapped Cabecou
Salad with, Confit de
Canard with Potatoes Sarladaise,
Walnut Gateau
Chilled
Haricot Vert with Smoked
Salmon, Avocado Glace,
Perigord Pie,
Orange Galette with
Raspberry Crème
Brulee
Vegetable
Tian with Truffle Vinaigrette,
Grilled Veal Chops with
Armagnac and Cepes, Roast
Fingerling Potato Ragout,
Gateau St. Honore
Seared
Foie Gras with Grilled
White Peach, Currant and
Fig Jam,
River Fish with
Brown Butter, Chanterelles
and Pinot Noir,
Roast Pintade
with Morels and Coq
au Vin Sauce, Apple
Tourtiere
The Dordogne has a deserved
reputation as one of Europe's
most beautiful river valleys
a gastronomic mecca for food
lovers and for history buffs,
the Hundred Years War. But
the history goes far beyond
that. It is also known
as 'The Capital of Prehistory',
site of the first homo sapiens
in a little village called
Cro Magnon, and the world
famous caves of Lascaux
, Font de Gaume, La Roque
St-Christophe and many other
historic troglodyte sites
and museums too numerous
to mention.
In addition the Dordogne
has some magnificent
caves and underground grottos
like Gouffres de Padirac
and Proumeyssac. From Biron
these are a full day trip
but the scenery like the
drive along the Vezere valley
is stunning with white limestone
cliffs and tiny hamlets.
There are other villages
to explore also such as Villefranche
du Perigord, and of course
Rocamadour is France’s
second most visited tourist
attraction after Le Mont
St-Michel. A magical
town with golden houses clinging
to the side of a cliff and
a holy shrine drawing thousands
of pilgrims each year. It’s
packed in the summer months
but worth the effort if you
only travel to Dordogne once.
We find the village of St.
Cirq La Popie east of Cahors
just as beautiful the drive
takes a couple hours but
is on the most scenic roads
of southwest France. Dordogne
is a medieval paradise. Everywhere
you look there are great
castles and fortified towns
and villages. Two Chateaux
we love are Chateau Loss
and Fenelon but choosing
is difficult because there
is also Château
de Castelnaud, Commarque
Castle, Les Milandes and
Haufort. Near Sarlat is Chateau
Puymartin which is fully
decorated with tapestries,
antiques and priceless objects
d’art, not to mention
the “White Lady” ghost
St Emilion is one of the
most important and beautiful
wine towns in the world – steeped
in history going back to
304AD. It is described
as an ‘archeological
gem’ surrounded by
vineyards, which produce
some of the best red wines
of Bordeaux. . If you
have the opportunity we suggest
spending a day or two on
the front or back end of
your trip here to fully soak
up the atmosphere.
Summer in Dordogne is ideal
for hiking, horseback riding,
golf, biking, hot air balloons
or a ride on a
gabarres a type of sailing
boat offering you the opportunity
to cruise down the river
taking in the history of
the water...
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