$2950 per Person Based on Double Occupancy, Exclusive of Airfare and Car Rental
• 6 Night Private Ensuite Lodging • All Meals & Unlimited Wine • Chateau Beynac Tour • Dinner at Edward I • Chateau les Merles Lunch • Cahors Wine Tours & Tastings • Enchantee Le Source Bleu Lunch • Cooking Lessons at Le Prieurie • Private Chef Lessons • Market Days & Artisan Producers
Perigord Noir, in Dordogne, is a land of fairy tales, enchantment, breathtaking scenery, truffles, chanterelles, duck confit, foie gras and deep ruby red wines. The Dordogne is ancient France and remains one of the most preserved areas away from the bustle of any big cites, its timeless villages are perched high above on limestone cliffs. The glories of victory and defeat are vividly brought back to life through the hilltop Chateaux and Bastide villages.
A legend pretends that when God distributed his castles, he started by the Loire Valley. Going far away from there, his bag burst over the Dordogne River and the Perigord region dotting the countryside with countless castles. Well over a hundred to be exact many still lived in.
Food lovers will know that the Dordogne is one of the most celebrated gastronomic regions in France. Much has been written about great food and wine in France and specifically from the Dordogne, famous for a cuisine rich in wild mushrooms, game and nuts. Walnuts appeared in the Cro Magnon man’s diet and were traded like gold until the thirteenth century. From gateau
aux noix, vin de noix, to the toasty walnut oil drizzled on salads, the walnut remains a key ingredient to many superb dishes.
Even in a land steeped with old-world traditions, inventive new cuisine is arriving with more emphasis on seafood from the coast and the river's fresh water fish. The celebrated duck and truffle still reign supreme, however many contemporary twists have arrived. Our menus highlight both.
Wednesday Day 1-
Arrival at PrieurÉ au Chateau de Biron
You may simply relax, join the dinner preparation in the kitchen or enjoy the beautiful terrace with a glass of wine before our first dinner.
In Le Prieuré kitchen several informal lessons on regional cooking using all the wonderful fresh market finds are offered most days. We welcome you to sharpen your skills or learn some of the basics of the Dordogne cuisine.
On this Vagabond Gourmet culinary adventure we will introduce you to many people who are passionate about the old traditions and recipes. Considered one of Dordogne’s most unique dishes la migue Sarladaise is a sort of dumpling, even though this “heavy cloud” as it translates is the size of a football, and carved at the table. We meet Brigitte who shows us how stale bread, a bit of meat, and a few vegetables transform into a hearty peasant style soup.
In our kitchen we’ll prepare some of the classics like the apple tartin the well loved classic upside down apple tart with buttery caramel. Baked in grandma’s old cast iron skillet and serve slightly warm with ice cream, this is a slice of heaven. Another favorite is the Gateau St. Honore whose origins may have begun on the streets of Paris but has come to symbolize birthdays and celebration all over France. This opulent, gorgeous dessert is really quite simply to prepare.
Thursday, Day 2-
Chateau Beynac and Daniele
Today, we’re visit the idyllic village of Beynac perched high above the Dordogne River and to walk in the footsteps of Kings. As one muse is quoted “if fairytales could dream” this would be it.”
The massive Chateau Beynac rises from the peak of the cliff, looming over the
river as it has for centuries dating back to 1115. Once home to Richard the
Lionheart, the cobblestone streets leading to the fortress leave visitors breathless
not only from its beauty but if you hike up from the road. It’s easy to forget
this was once the scene for vicious battles and the castle was so powerful and
its barons so cruel that local vassals and peasants named it "Satan's
ark".
One cannot help but imagine the smells in the massive kitchen where swords were neatly sheathed at the table’s edge and the gigantic cauldrons simmered and bubbled with goose fat and stews. Undoubtedly, the castle cooks were well guarded and we can understand how the origins of this rich cuisine came to be. The preserving of geese for the winters and spreading fat laden rillettes on a slab of bread makes perfect sense after you peer over the ramparts of the Chateau and envision the climb wearing armor.
We also meet the “Grand Dame” of Perigordian cuisine, Daniele and join her in an ancient kitchen where she is cooking duck confit in a century old ‘royale a type of cast iron pan set in the coals of a wood fire. Danielle tells us her amazing history as a chef while the smell duck is filling the air and bits of fat are sizzling in the fire. Daniele is simply delightful and her stories and food served in her old family home is an experience you will cherish for a long time.
Market day in Monpazier
Founded in 1284 by Edward I of England, Monpazier if the most intact bastide in Dordogne the village has several charming shops, art and antiques. The main square is packed with vendors who travel from village to village selling their artisan foods and handmade crafts. If we are lucky, this is the season for cepes and Monpazier has one of the most important cepe markets in Dordogne.
Cepe gathering is a fascinating and magical tradition because of the elusive habits of the fungus and the people know when the time is near. When you ask a local exactly when the mushrooms will arrive, you’ll get a wink, a smile and told “when the moonlight, forrest, sun and rain are exactly correct”. Only the local villagers are allowed to pick and sell them and often tell stories of vipers in the woods to scare off other mushroom pickers from their favorite spot.
To add to the mystery and folklore the cepe grows in the middle of the night to gigantic portions. Somehow the experts know when the conditions are just right and fortunately our friends at Edward1 will be first to know and call us.
Friday, Day 3-
Cooking Lessons and Dinner at Edward I
After breakfast we begin our cooking lessons and preparation of a true Cassoulet requiring several days’ effort but well worth the result. The first part of the preparation we will make a duck stock and another meat stock for cooking the beans.
The Cassoulet
According to the legend, it was during the 100 years war that the residents of Castelnaudary came up with a single-pot recipe of hearty food to reinforce its soldiers. As the story goes the English were preparing to storm the city when the locals gathered bits of meat and vegetables from each and every household. White beans, pork, goose, lamb and sausages were thrown in a huge pot and when the banquet was devoured the villagers were so empowered they chased the English all the back to the Channel.
Edward I
The husband and wife team making a splash on the culinary scene in the elegant
Edward 1 Hotel in Monpazier are bringing fresh ideas to the table using the regions
excellent products. The charming restaurant of Edward1 in Monpazier is the setting
for an elegant private dinner for us to enjoy the innovative new Perigordine
cuisine, beautifully prepared and presented by Marije who also welcomes us into
her kitchen.
Saturday, Day 4 -
Chateau les Merles
After a leisurely morning we visit the exquisite Chateau les Merles for an exceptional
lunch and visit. Each course is presented with panache and innovative style,
the best of the New Perigordine cuisine. The kitchen creates tantalizing dishes
like ahi tuna with vegetable gaufrettes, coriander cream and basil glace. Using
many ingredients they have grown in their own gardens, each course may pair regional
classics with surprises like a Quercy lamb chop pastilla with a black olive vinaigrette
and eggplant caviar.
On the way back to Le Prieuré we drive though the walnut groves and tiny hamlets of Molières and St Avit Sénieur both pretty as a postcard and off the beaten path.
Preparations for tonight’s dinner are also happening in the kitchen, so we hope
you will join our chefs or if you’d rather you can explore the Chateau de Biron
at our doorstep. Magnificent, awe-inspiring the Chateau de Biron has been beautifully
restored, with its mysterious dungeons, huge kitchens (you can almost smell the
cooking), the opulent bedrooms, towers banqueting hall and secret pass ways.
Sunday, Day 5-
Issigeac Market and Cooking
Sunday market at the medieval village of Issigeac.
The narrow streets are packed with vendors offering every product imaginable. Their placement is by no means random, and every vendor earns his spot. They travel from village to village and might not always have the same items. Madame Gisele makes her own phyllo for the regional Tourtiere
aux Pommes and pours a double shot of apple brandy in between the buttery layers just before she ties a ribbon on the box. We’ve given everyone a basket, a handful of Euros and part of the shopping list, so this lively market experience is fun for all and sampling is definitely encouraged.
Louis is the vegetable king with tables laden with everything just picked from his garden and next to him is our favorite cheese monger. Two of the region’s best bakers are also in Issigeac and a butcher who is one the best kept secrets in Perigord. Arms and baskets filled with local cheeses, the best ham you ever tasted, oils, warm baguettes and free range roasted birds from the chicken man we’ll make one more stop at the patisserie to buy the most amazing chocolate éclairs to add to our lunch later.
Cooking Lessons
Tonight we feast on the Cassoulet! The special ingredients have been assembled from best butchers and markets. The homemade Toulouse sausages and duck confit are made by our butcher in of St Cyprien and the beans have been slowly cooked with lamb and pork. The trick is in the final assembly and baking we’ll show you in our kitchen. Perfect with a Pecharmant from Chateau Tiregand we particularity love, his 2002
Grand Millésime.
Monday Day 6-
The Black Wine of Cahors
Not far to the south is the Lot valley with its winding river, limestone gorges and vineyards of Cahors. The black wines are reputedly the darkest in the world and legend says their richness makes them the greatest "undiscovered" French wine. It’s been said that men would pour a bit on their shirts to review the stain and determine if the wine had been watered down. Chateau de Chambert produces a deep rich wine with all the "shirt stainer" characteristic of a good Cahors and is our first stop.
To learn about the most noble and ancient red wine we meet some of the producers who shed some light on this hidden gem among French wines. Older than Bordeaux with a reputation for darkness and strength it is the only French red wine to harness the power of the Malbec grape. Clos de Gamot, Siguier, Triguedina and Chateau Gaudou are just a few of the 200 domains in this wine producing powerhouse.
After a tour and visit to the tasting rooms we are off to lunch at le Source Bleu. The hotel was originally three water mills run by the blue spring. They date back to the 11th and 15th century. There is also a restaurant called "La Source Enchantée" which is located in a converted barn with its original beams.
Enchanting is the 400 year history of the family best told by our dear friend Virginie under the willow tress alongside the idyllic river. Virginie bakes us a walnut gateau sprinkled with homemade vin
de noix and tells us the stories of her famous family where food, wine and art have been celebrated. It will be a delightful afternoon, guaranteed.
If today has been your first introductions to the wines of Cahors, the dinner lesson in Le Prieuré pairs the savory intensity of this appellation with the robust classics of the region
Tuesday- Day 7 Departure
Our Dordogne Kitchen
The breakfast table each morning greets you with café au lait, pain au chocolate, warm croissants and toast. An assortment of fruits, muesli, yogurts are also served with quiches, tarts, homemade jams, and juice.
Evenings begin with pates, rillettes, smoked salmon, game sausages and the incredible local cheeses from the surrounding farms. Surprises from the markets or impromptu farm stops are often included in our menus and typically four or five courses are served. A sampling of our menus are below and please note we gladly accommodate personal likes or dislikes as noted from your Vagabond
Gourmet trip application.
Pumpkin Bisque with Cepes, Grilled Magret with Walnut
Liquor and Fresh Raspberries, Haricot Vert with Roast Giroles, and Chocolate
Pot du CrÉme
Tourtiere of Duck Confit with Caramelized Shallots, Grilled
Salmon with BÉarnaise and Pan Stew of Vegetables, Warm Cabecou with Armagnac Roasted Pears and Walnut Vinaigrette, Lavender CrÉme
Caramel
Mique Sarladaise, Warm Tomato with Truffle Custard, Mache and Walnut Vinaigrette, Noisette of Lamb with Black Currant and Cahors Reductions, Walnut Plum and Roquefort Tart
Block de Foie Gras with Berry Compote, Cassoulet with Homemade Toulouse Sausages, Rocamadour with Field Greens, Grilled Cepes and Walnuts, Apple Tart Tartin
Monkfish in Shallots Saffron, Wine, Tomatoes, Tournedos of Beef with Sauce Perigueux, Potato and Celeriac Puree, Chocolate Ganache Torte
Chilled Haricot Vert with Smoked Salmon, Pancetta Wrapped Cabecou
with Greens and Pomegranate Jus, Confit de Canard with Potatoes Sarladaise, Walnut Gateau
Vegetable Tian with Truffle Vinaigrette, Grilled Veal Chops with Armagnac and Cepes, Roast Fingerling Potato Ragout, Gateau St. Honore
Seared Foie Gras with Onion, Currant and Fig Jam, River
Fish with
Pinot Noir and Brown Butter, Roast Pintade with Morels and
Coq au
Vin Sauce, Apple Tourtiere
More about the Region and Other Options
The Dordogne has a deserved reputation as one of Europe's most beautiful river valleys a gastronomic mecca for food lovers and for history buffs, the Hundred Years War. But the history goes far beyond that. It is also known as 'The Capital of Prehistory', site of the first homo sapiens in a little village called Cro Magnon, and the world famous caves of Lascaux , Font de Gaume, La Roque St-Christophe and many other historic troglodyte sites and museums too numerous to mention.
In addition the Dordogne has some magnificent caves and underground grottos like Gouffres de Padirac and Proumeyssac. From Biron these are a full day trip but the scenery like the drive along the Vezere valley is stunning with white limestone cliffs and tiny hamlets.
St Emilion is one of the most important and beautiful wine towns in the world – steeped
in history going back to 304AD. It is described as an ‘archeological gem’ surrounded
by vineyards, which produce some of the best red wines of Bordeaux. If you have
the opportunity we suggest spending a day or two on the front or back end of
your trip here to fully soak up the atmosphere.
The wines of St. Emilion have long been sought after, yet neighboring Bergerac produces the excellent Pecharmant also worthy of royalty. A good place to start your knowledge of the full bodied wines is Chateau de Tiregand who spares nothing in the pursuit of excellence. The family has been making wine for well over 300 years and is home to Francois de Saint-Exupéry who delights us each time with his stories about the history of the vineyards, the art of wine tasting and a trip up his family tree.
One of our favorite villages is picture-perfect little jewel, Domme. The turbulent history of the Bastide town is long forgotten and now within the ramparts and ancient gates is one of most beautiful villages of France. Today the honey colored stone houses and flower filled windows are fine shops offering, antiques, art, wine, walnut products, jars of confit, pate, and countless other regional goods. One shop we love sells violet and walnut mustards, artisanal fruit brandies, truffles and we think best walnut oil.
There are other villages to explore also such as Villefranche du Perigord, and of course Rocamadour is France’s second most visited tourist attraction after Le Mont St-Michel. A magical town with golden houses clinging to the side of a cliff and a holy shrine drawing thousands of pilgrims each year. It’s packed in the summer months but worth the effort if you only travel to Dordogne once.
Dordogne is a medieval paradise. Everywhere you look there are great castles and fortified towns and villages. Two Chateaux we love are Chateau Loss and Fenelon but choosing is difficult because there is also Château de Castelnaud, Commarque Castle, Les Milandes and Haufort. Near Sarlat is Chateau Puymartin which is fully decorated with tapestries, antiques and priceless objects d’art, not to mention the “White Lady” ghost
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