Upon arrival at the Mas des Roures you may rest or join us for a lovely wine and cheese tasting prior to our first dinner together. We have carefully selected local wines to compliment our supper and give you the first taste of all the Provencal cuisine to come.
Our gorgeous mas are located in one of the most picturesque villages in Provence in the heart of the Alpilles. With a sweeping view of the village, Mont Ventoux and the plain between the Durance and Rhône rivers, this is the perfect spot to discover the region or to just lose yourself and gaze in the fields of olive trees.
The large country kitchen is a chef’s dream with everything imaginable for the preparation of our “cuisine of the sun,” the name often given to this classic Provencal cooking. Provence dishes are rich with garlic, olives, tomatoes, artichokes, eggplant, legumes, peppers, herbs and greens – all freshly plucked from the groves and gardens. Many specialties are fragrant with herbs and oil blended to make pistou, tapenades or the famous blend that makes the “Herbs de Provence”. Fresh goat cheese, fish, seafood, succulent Alpilles lamb, plump chickens and a bounty of spring vegetables and fruits will be filling the markets
Learn the secrets of Provencal cooking in a relaxed fun atmosphere where daily lessons are informal and designed for all levels of skill. Typical meals begin with a regional “Plat du Fromage” of local artisanal cheeses, charcuterie from the farms, smoked hams and dry cure sausages, olives and delicious Provencal seafood dishes like Bourride or tiny sardines cooked in oil and vinegar.
From Cavallion come the famed melons, perfect in a chilled melon “Cappuccino”, or a salmon tartar with chilled ratatouille and garlic toasts. The hearty ratatouille epitomizes the essence of Provence cuisine. Eggplants, zucchinis, onions, tomatoes, peppers, garlic and olive oil are stewed together into a flavorful and extraordinary creation, one of Provence best known dishes.
We love all that France has to offer so another favorite of ours are grilled slices of magret with a Cote du Rhone and peppercorn reduction then perhaps a warm chocolate “Pot du Crème” spiked with Pastis. Lavender lends its scent to everything from crème brulee to roast chicken and another favorite of ours is simple compote made with apricots and saffron we like to serve with grilled pork loin.
Finish off your culinary tour de Provence by savoring some of the region’s most wonderful wines, including rosés that will completely surprise you that we have discovered in the Luberon.
Day 2 – Sunday City of Popes & Le Mirande
Sunday brunch in Provence! Linger if you wish over a “Croque Madame” or omelets piperade with fresh fruits, rich coffee and more of the homemade jams and honeys for your croissants and pastries we’ve discovered from the market.
Avignon is a major tourist attraction and often crowded so we have planned a bit different way to enjoy the city. We depart by a private mini – coach in the afternoon to the fortified city of Avignon and the biggest gothic palace in all of Europe.
The Palace of the Popes stands as the mighty symbol of the church’s influence throughout the western Christian world in the 14th century and is the biggest Gothic palace in all of Europe.
The visit includes the ceremonial rooms, chapels, cloister, private papal apartments with priceless frescoes, and others. The Palace is ranked among UNESCO World Heritage.
Indulge in a bit of “café society” people watching before our incredible “Chef Table” dinner in the grand La Mirande. This unique event is held in the in the wonderfully restored 19th century kitchen.
La Mirande was once a cardinal’s palace and dates back seven hundred years, changing in a variety of forms since Avignon’s 14th-century tenure as the seat of Papal power and headquarters of the Catholic Church. Today it’s an exquisitely intimate boutique hotel where we’ll enjoy drinks in the opulent salon our evening of fun begins.
Our host and Chef de Cuisine for the evening is the jovial Jean Claude who entertains us with a cooking lesson or shall we shall “culinary theatre” and we are part of the performance. We know you will love the show, our dinner and Jean Claude. From start to finish we assist the master who expertly sets the stage for laughter and a great time for all.
After dinner we return to our mini coach for a champagne tour of the beautiful illuminated monuments of Avignon.
Day 3 - Monday - Saint Remy
and Les Baux
Saint Remy and is a lively village considered to capture the essence of the Provence experience particularly when it comes to shopping. Most people fall in love with this little gem and no visit to Provence would be complete with stopping for goodies.
The beauty of the countryside and the quality of light has inspired many artists, writers and painters. Without a doubt, the most famous was Vincent Van Gogh who produced more than 150 paintings of the countryside surrounding Saint Rémy de Provence.
St. Rémy is pretty and picturesque, and also home to chocolatier extraordinaire Joel Durand, Boulangerie Fortier and artisan baker Le Petit Duc. This bakery specializes in putting a modern twist on ancient flavors, such as the saffron-spiced coeurs du Petit-Albert, which are based on a 14th-century recipe.
The historic center is a maze of art galleries, kitchen wares, food shops, pottery, fabrics, jewelry and objects of desire for collectors and gourmands.
On the way to Les Baux a stop for a delicious lunch at a favorite of food lovers whose delightful owners will welcome everyone like old friends.
Les Baux de Provence
Labeled as "one of the most beautiful villages in France" Le Baux has an exceptionally rich heritage of architectural treasures which is pretty amazing when you see it hanging off its rocky perch.
The remains of the medieval citadel rise above the vale of Fontaine. The village has enjoyed a rebirth due to the many olive oil makers, wine-makers and artists who’ve managed to restore the original spirit of the unique place to the origin spirit and are now a major tourist destination for the prestigious “art-de-vivre”.
A visit to Mas Les Barre olive oil mill on the way home we can stop for a tasting and buy some of Province’s finest olive oils as we begin a two day preparation for our bouillabaisse.
Bouillabaisse
Bouillabaisse they say can only be made with fish from Marseille. A real bouillabaisse is magical with heady scents of garlic, saffron, fennel and intensely flavored fish broth. First the broth is served with garlicky rouille similar to an aioli and crusty croutons while another whole fish is quickly poached and presented with saffron cooked potatoes and more of the heavenly rouille and baguettes.
The Mediterranean provides the abundance of fish and seafood necessary for this traditional hallmark of Provencal cuisine including the angler fish, sea bream, scorpion fish, eel and the mythic rockfish, if they can be found. Making the stock to reduce and intensify the flavors a day ahead is an important procedure we believe in making this celebrated piece de resistance.
Day 4 - Tuesday - Aix en
Provence
Whatever your reason for coming to Provence, one thing is certain---you will eat well. The local produce is colorful and fresh, and today is market day in Aix en Provence which has one of the regions’ biggest and has been taking place for centuries. With over 350 stalls, you can easily pass the morning meandering the labyrinth of homegrown specialties, chatting with local artisans and soaking in this ultimate ‘grocery shopping' experience.
Market Day in Aix
Specialty artisans from all over Provence arrive with some of the best quality foods we know of coming to Aix for the “grand Marché” and to display their wares. Little “fermier” (farmer) producers bring specialty cheeses like the gooey banon wrapped in chestnuts leaves or the famous Crottin Maitre Segun, and Crottin de Chavignol both deliciously tart and pungent, or the beautiful little fresh goat cheeses sprinkled with flowers and herbs.
The abundance of vegetables, fruits and herbs is staggering, as is the assortment of olives, tapenades and honeys scented with rosemary, lavender or thyme. Boulanger’s bring fresh baked breads - fougasse, fig, olive and walnut all delicious dipped in some of the finest oils of the region like Mas de Barres, or friends Rox and Nico’s Mas de Bories,
Provencal cuisine is actually a fusion of culinary influences especially Greek, Latin and Mediterranean so the market becomes a moveable feast sampling giant pans of paella, spicy lamb sausages, fruit preserves, mustards, nougats or calissons, sweet oval biscuits made with almond paste. To fuel an afternoon of sightseeing or café watching one Aix food shrines for chocoholics is Chocolatier de Puyricard one of the finest producers in France or a stop at Mallards’s for patisserie.
For lunch we’ll stop at one of Aix’s best kept secrets or an old favorite hangout, Deux Garcon a fabled café has wined and dined everyone. Another choice is Le Verdun a low key friendly sort of place restaurant with an idyllic terrace under plane trees. Good Provencal dishes are served elbow to elbow with the locals. Or L’Amphitryon in a beautiful a traditional setting with a wonderful courtyard and the food is prepared with a few surprises giving the classic French dishes a refreshing touch and style.
Dinner this night will be at the mas after enjoying aperitifs and tasty treats from the market and since we’ve had a special trip to the fishmonger tonight we complete our bouillabaisse.
More About Aix
Aix en Provence is the baroque treasure of Provence, Aix was the capitol of Provence in the 15th century, Wealthy merchants and local dignitaries helped turn this city into the Florence of Provence as we know it today. One can find all the beauty of the noble Provence of the17th and 18th centuries: handsome houses of the upper class, private mansions, and city squares bursting with flowers, ancient fountains and shaded narrow streets.
As a city of art and culture Aix possesses a wealth of superb architecture that has been carefully preserved and restored. Walking through the Cours Mirabeau and the Rue Gaston de Saporta one can admire the private mansions with their sculptured doors and windows and the intricate iron work on the balconies. You may choose to shop in the elegant boutiques in the quartier Mazarin. Or visit one of the many museums like The Musée Garnet, Atelier Cezanne, or the Pavilion Vendome. There’s even a walking tour in Cezanne footsteps.
The Cours Mirabeau has some of the finest fountains in Aix where the La Rotunda is a great place to sample chocolates and pastries from the local food shrines.
Day 5 - Wednesday - The Real Provence
After breakfast we have an idyllic road trip to visit the heart and soul villages of old Provence. On the way to Gordes we see the beautiful valleys, vineyards, olive and almond groves set against the rocky hill top background of the Luberon. It’s also market day in Gordes and another opportunity to buy handmade crafts, linens or gifts.
Situated in the heart of one of the biggest ochre deposits in the world, Roussillon is famous for its magnificent red cliffs and ochre quarries. It is considered one of the most impressive villages in France - Roussillon is one of the "must-sees" in the Luberon
Long known for its beauty Bonnieux is often called the village in the clouds. No doubt we will feel like we’re walking in them ourselves after the magnificent lunch at Edouard’s Loubet’s charming restaurant.
Edouard has rocked the culinary world as the youngest Michelin 2 stared chef and his sublime cuisine is imaginative and in his own words to “conquer new heights in fine French cuisine.”
Loubet grows much of his own produce, such as the sunflowers he uses for his signature sunflower hearts with sweet vinaigrette, grated-potato fritters, and chanterelles. Succulent lamb was scented with a smoked rosemary wood and the gratin of potatoes he affectionately has named for his grandmother was served in individual cast iron pot adorned with fresh flowers and ferns. Loubets’ food is passionate and playful, all impeccably presented.
By far one of our favorite culinary experiences ever and we can’t wait to see what he has up his sleeve next.
On the return to our mas we stop to visit an estate Faverote whose signature wine is named after the vintners grandfather a General in Napoleon’s army. Nearby are two more Domaine de la Royère and Domaine Meillan Pages who’s Cote du Luberon will pair perfectly with our spring lunches and dinners.
Day 6 - Thursday ChÂteauneuf–du-Pape
After a hearty breakfast before we journey to one of France’s most important wine regions. Originally the summer home of Avignon’s Popes the vineyards are warmed by the rocky soil and produce a rich ruby red and exquisite white. Two of our private tastings are with prestigious estates long known for superlative productions. Serious winos will not be disappointed, and amateurs are in for a tasty education this week in Châteauneuf-du-Pape.
The village of Châteauneuf-du-Pape is charming with tasting rooms and cellars to experience all the stellar wine producers. This is an excellent opportunity to buy Vieux Telegraphe or a little something special for your own private cellar.
Beaucastel is regarded by many as one of the top estates, if not the top estate, of Châteauneuf du Pape. The history of this family is legendary in an appellation steeped in aristocratic pedigrees and surrounded by other magnificent wine producers.
Some may argue that Chateau La Nerthe is the finest, known for wines so refined and classy they were served at the court of Louis XVI. In our opinion the favorable choice is to compare and taste these regal wines personally during a day of chateau hopping at these beautiful estates.
A splendid picnic in a truly unique location awaits, we will only say is the ultimate “room with a view”.
Dinner tonight in our beautiful garden terrace and paired wines we’ve brought back from our day’s journey.
Day 7 - Friday - Chez Bru
Enjoy leisurely morning in the rose gardens, by the lovely pool of the estate, or a stroll in our village and visit La Maison d’Anaïs. As romantic as the name suggests this is the place for perfumes, sweets and a seductive collection of cadeaux.
The small village of Eygalieres is stunning with remnants of an ancient Gallic castle and excellent walking paths, the epitome of rural Provence. Nearby is Le Jardin de l'Alchimiste, a remarkable if not spooky garden inspired by medieval alchemy and the making of secret potions
Another magical gourmet experience extraordinaire awaits us at the legendary Chez Bru. The super tres chic restaurant has been dazzling guests with the cuisine of this other Provencal super star chef. Wout Bru's inventive cuisine is a style described as simple, flavorful, rustic, modern, astounding, and in general over the top. Originally from Belgium it’s said he understands the flavors of Provence better than his native counterparts.
Wout often uses vinaigrette and jus bases to keep his cooking light and full of flavor. "I'm always looking for new ways to enhance the essence of each product I work with, from the farm, the forest, and the sea," he says. A lavish multi-course tasting menu will leave your mouth watering for a long time.
Can it get any better Loubet and Bru, a Vagabond
Gourmet chef challenge?
Day 8 - Saturday – Departure
After one last breakfast we depart Mas des Roures approximately 9:00am.
The Cuisine of the Sun
To the French food is serious business. In Provence it is sacred and whether the baker from Boulangerie “shrine” Chez Auzet who teaches the art of bread consumption and how it must be paired to each course, or to the “alchemy of chocolate” as Joel Durand’s describes his ethereal concoctions, we happily benefit from their devotion.
Below is a sampling of our menus using the seasonal foods of the markets and daily discoveries. Remember, our chefs are eager to include your personal favorites in our recipes because pampering our guests is Vagabond Gourmet’s secret ingredient.
Warm Tartine of Chevre and Fig Tapenade, a Napoleon of Seared Scallops and Caviar
Grilled Leg of Lamb over Vine Cuttings, Roast Girolles Potato Puree, Tomatoes Provencal,
A Raspberry Tart with Crème Patisserie, Warm White Peach Compote and Cognac Caramel
Warm Tomato with Truffle Custard and Mache, Grilled Calamari, Green Garlic Vinaigrette, Crispy Vegetable Straws, Traditional Bouillabaisse- the “Boil Down” Fish Soup of Marseille
Lavender Crème Brulee
Salmon Tartar with Chilled Asparagus and Anchoiade Toasts, Pistou Soup with Grilled Prawns, Daube of Beef, Eggplant Tian with Saffron Aioli, Oil Roast Tomatoes and Tapenade Nicoise,
Chocolate Pot du Crème with Pastis
“Brandade de Nimes” ,Fennel Grilled Dorade Sautéed Pasta with Lobster in the Catalian Style, Roast Chicken with Lavender Rosemary Honey, Lemon and Beaumes de Venise
Orange Galette with Carpentras Strawberries Gratinee
Guinea Hens in Syrah with Roast Apricots, Ratatouille Crepe,
Nectarine Tart Tartin, Almond Praline, Chantilly Cream
Escargots Mustard Garlic Crumbs, Grilled Filet of Beef with Duxelles,
White Mushroom Tapenade and Basil Pistou Sauce
Haricot Vert with Olives, Tomatoes and Garlic, Salad of Grilled Chanterelles and Vacherin
Café Leigoise with Joel Durand Chocolates
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